Wild mushroom risotto

Intensely flavored mushroom risotto is best in small portions; serve it with lemon chicken and a crisp green salad to balance its deep earthiness.

SERVES: 3 or 4

INGREDIENTS:

• 3 cups homemade or lower-salt chicken broth; more if needed
• 1 oz. dried porcini mushrooms, soaked and chopped as directed below
• 4 tbs. unsalted butter
• 3/4 cup arborio rice
• 2 cups (about 1/2 lb.) mixed fresh mushrooms (preferably some wild), cleaned, trimmed, and coarsely chopped
• 2/3 cup dry white wine
• Kosher salt
• 1/4 cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
• 2 tbs. freshly grated
• Parmigiano-Reggiano

INSTRUCTIONS:

1. In a medium saucepan, heat the chicken broth along with 1 cup of the reserved strained porcini soaking liquid. Keep at a simmer.
2. In another medium, heavy-based saucepan, melt 2 tbs. of the butter over medium-high heat. Stir in the rice, toasting just until it starts to sizzle and pop, about 1 minute. It should not color. Stir the porcini and the fresh mushrooms into the rice. Stir in the wine. When almost all the liquid has disappeared, after about 2 minutes, add just enough hot broth to cover the rice. Lower the heat to maintain a vigorous simmer; stir occasionally. When the broth is almost gone, add more just to cover the rice, along with a pinch of salt.
3. Check on the risotto every 3 or 4 minutes, giving it an occasional stir to make sure it isn’t sticking to the bottom of the pan and adding just enough broth to cover the rice when the liquid has almost disappeared. Continue this way until the rice is just al dente, about 20 minutes total cooking time. Bite into a grain; you should see a white pin-dot in the center.
4. Take the risotto off the heat. Add the remaining 2 tbs. butter; stir vigorously for a few seconds. Add the parsley, cheese, and more salt, if needed. The risotto should be moist and creamy, not runny. Stir in more broth to loosen the risotto, if you like. Serve immediately.

SOAKING DRIED MUSHROOMS:

• Put the dried mushrooms in a medium heatproof bowl and pour in 2 cups of boiling water. Use a small  plate to weight the mushrooms so they stay submerged. (if you’re using smaller or larger amounts of  mushrooms, just use enough water to completely submerge them.)
• Soak until the mushrooms are plumped and softened, about 20 minutes (some varieties might take  longer).
• Use a slotted spoon to transfer the mushrooms to a cutting board, squeezing any excess liquid from the mushrooms  back into the soaking liquid. Remove and discard any tough stems and coarsely chop the  mushrooms.
• Strain the soaking liquid through a coffee filter (or a paper towel set in a strainer). Set aside the   mushroom “broth” for the dish you’re making or freeze it to use in another recipe.