Parsnip risotto with pancetta and sage

A parsnip looks like an overgrown white carrot, but its flavor is more complex. This root vegetable is sweet, with a perfumed nuttiness, a touch of chestnut, and a hint of winter squash, combined with a starchy texture.

SERVES: 4 t o 6

INGREDIENTS:

• Kosher salt
• 11/2 lb. medium parsnips, peeled, cored, and cut into medium dice (21/2 cups)
• 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
• Freshly ground black pepper
• 3 oz. thinly sliced pancetta, cut into 1/2 -inch-wide strips (about 1 cup)
• 3 tbs. roughly chopped fresh sage
• 3 medium cloves garlic, roughly chopped
• 1 medium yellow onion, cut into small dice
• 2 cups arborio rice
• Pinch of crumbled saffron (optional)
• 6 cups lower-salt chicken broth
• 1/2 cup dry white wine
• 2 tbs. unsalted butter
• 2 oz. freshly grated ParmigianoReggiano; more for serving

INSTRUCTIONS:

1. Bring a large pot of lightly salted water to a boil. Add the parsnips and boil until firm tender, 3 to 5 minutes. Drain and spread on a rimmed baking sheet to cool to room temperature.
2. Heat 2 tbs. of the olive oil in a large cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat. Add the parsnips, a pinch of salt, and a few grinds of pepper and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened and lightly browned, about 4 minutes. Add the pancetta and cook until sizzling and crisp, about 2 minutes. Add the sage and garlic and cook, stirring frequently, until the garlic is fragrant and the sage is starting to crisp, about 2 minutes more. Set aside.
3. Heat the remaining 2 tbs. olive oil in an 11- to 12-inch straight-sided sauté pan over medium-high heat. Add the onion, a small pinch of salt, and a few grinds of pepper and cook, stirring occasionally, until beginning to soften, about 5 minutes. Add the rice, 2 tsp. salt, and the saffron (if using), stirring well to coat. Add 2 cups of the broth and the wine; simmer, stirring, until the liquid is completely absorbed, 3 to 4 minutes. Continue adding the broth in 1-cup increments, stirring and adjusting the heat to maintain a brisk simmer and letting each addition be almost absorbed before adding the next. The risotto is done when the rice is nearly but not fully tender (al dente) and still a little soupy (this usually takes 14 to 16 minutes after the first addition of liquid). You may not use all the broth, but you should use at least 4 cups.
4. Fold the parsnip mixture into the risotto. Add the butter and parmigiano and stir gently to incorporate. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve sprinkled with more grated parmigiano.