Parsnips are a sweet, old-fashioned vegetable, one my grandmother and my father both adored. Instead of the humble staple it was in those generations, though, the parsnip has become a specialty vegetable, something vaunted and chic to cook and eat. If chic is what it takes to get this vegetable back on the table, then I’m all for it. One thing I know for certain is that even the most skeptical of eaters succumbs to the haunting, sweet, buttery flavor and texture of parsnips. I do my very best to support the parsnip, and the parsnip growers of the world, serving it at every opportunity. This is a favorite preparation, which can either leave the parsnip in its habitual supporting role or make it the main character. Serve this alongside a grilled steak or lamb chops or put it center stage as a first course.
Makes 2 main-course servings or 4 side-dish servings
Ingredients:
1 pound (500 g) parsnips, trimmed and peeled
1 tablespoon walnut oil
1 garlic clove, minced
2 tablespoons walnuts, coarsely chopped
½ teaspoon fresh thyme leaves, or to taste
Fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
Note: When buying parsnips, which look like stubby white carrots, look for those that are unblemished and evenly ivory in color. They must be firm and look as though they were harvested recently. Walnut oil is fragile, so the heat in this recipe is delicate, to preserve the oil’s finest qualities.
1. Cut the parsnips lengthwise into quarters and cut out the tough core. Cut the parsnip quarters into 1-inch lengths.
2. Bring a medium pan of salted water to a boil and add the parsnips. Return the water to a boil and cook the parsnips until tender through, about 8 minutes. Drain the parsnips.
3. In a heavy nonstick skillet over medium-low heat, warm the walnut oil and garlic until the garlic is sizzling. Add the parsnips, walnuts, and fresh thyme leaves and cook, stirring frequently and shaking the pan, until the parsnips are light gold and all the ingredients are hot through, about 8 minutes. Season the parsnips with salt and pepper, toss and stir to combine, then serve.