Fresh shell beans are grown for the seed rather than for the pod. Their season is fleeting—just a couple of short months. Harbingers of autumn, they usually appear at the farmers’ market at the very tip-end of summer, when temperatures begin to be chilly in the morning but days are still full and warm. The first to arrive in my market are
speckled red haricots à ecossais, called tongue of fire beans in the United States. Then come the pale yellow podded version, which we just call shell beans, then the gorgeously pale white Paimpol beans. Whenever they are cooked and eaten, their natural affinity for nuts and nut oils never wanes. As for herbs, savory or rosemary complements them best. I hope you’ll add these to your repertoire.
Makes 6 servings
Ingredients:
3 pounds (1.5 kg) shell beans in the pod, shucked
Several sprigs of fresh rosemary or savory
2 tablespoons hazelnut oil
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
Fleur de sel
Fresh rosemary sprigs for garnish
Note: Shell and place the beans in sturdy plastic bags, then put them in the freezer. They will keep for many months and can be cooked from their frozen state. Once frozen, they are best added to soups or stews rather than prepared as a separate side dish. Try these with hazelnut oil, as suggested here, then sample them with other nut oils as well.
Another serving suggestion is to toss these in walnut oil and then top each serving with a freshly sautéed piece of foie gras.
Directions:
1. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the beans and 2 to 3 sprigs of herbs and cook, covered, until the beans are just tender through, about 15 minutes. Keep warm in the water until ready to serve.
2. Just before serving, discard the herbs, drain the beans, and transfer the warm beans to a medium bowl. Toss with the hazelnut oil and season with salt and pepper. Remove the leaves from the remaining herbs, coarsely chop them, and add to the beans. Toss well and place an equal amount in each of six warmed shallow bowls. Season with the
fleur de sel and garnish with the rosemary sprigs at the last minute.
