Greens, Fresh Peas, and Ham Soup

In a Hurry, Cheap Eats, Meat as a Condiment, Fit for a Crowd, Family Meal

This light but satisfying soup captures the essence of spring, when sweet green peas first make their appearance. Unfortunately, unless they are used within a day or so after picking, the peas change from sweet to starchy. If you can’t get really fresh peas, the solution is to use frozen, which are processed before they have turned starchy. That way, you can make this soup at any time of year.

Serves 8

INGREDIENTS:

• 1 tablespoon olive oil
• 1½ cups coarsely chopped onions
• 2 garlic cloves, minced
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 6 cups Ham Stock (recipe follows), homemade pork stock, or canned low-sodium chicken broth
• 1 pound Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and cut into ½-inch cubes
• ½ pound greens, such as kale, Swiss chard, mustard greens, or collard greens, ribs discarded, leaves coarsely chopped
• 1 fresh rosemary sprig
• 2 bay leaves
• 2 cups diced canned tomatoes (I use San Marzano)
• 1 pound leftover ham, cut into ½-inch cubes (about 2½ cups)
• 1 cup cooked white beans, such as Great Northern or zolfini
• 2 cups fresh or frozen peas
• 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice, or more to taste
• 3 tablespoons finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

HAM STOCK

This stock provides a hearty underpinning for soup.

MAKES:  about 2 quarts

• 1 meaty ham bone or 2–3 ham hocks (about 2 pounds total)
• 1 onion, not peeled, studded with 2 cloves
• 3 garlic cloves, not peeled
• 1 carrot, peeled and cut into 3 pieces
• 2 celery stalks, each broken into 3 or 4 pieces
• 1 fresh thyme sprig
• 3 bay leaves
• 1 teaspoon black peppercorns

GARNISH:

8 poached large eggs (optional)
Good extra-virgin olive oil
Freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

INSTRUCTIONS:

1. Heat the oil in a large saucepan or soup pot over medium-high heat. Add the onions, garlic, and a sprinkle of salt and pepper and cook, stirring frequently, until the onions are translucent and beginning to brown, about 10 minutes. Add the stock, potatoes, and greens. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat to a simmer, and cook until the potatoes are just tender, about 15 minutes.
2. Tie the rosemary and bay leaves in a bundle with butcher’s twine and add to the soup, along with the tomatoes, ham, and beans. Cook at a low simmer for 15 minutes.
3. Add the peas and cook for 5 minutes more. Discard the herb bundle. Add the lemon juice and season to taste with salt and pepper. Taste for seasonings and add more lemon juice, salt, and/or pepper. Stir in the parsley. Ladle the soup into heated soup bowls. Add a poached egg to each bowl (if using), drizzle with olive oil, and sprinkle with cheese.

HAM STOCK:

1. Throw the ham bone or hocks into a soup pot and add everything else. Cover with cold water. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to a simmer, cover, and cook for 2½ to 3 hours, or until the broth has a nice hammy flavor or the ham hocks are tender. Strain and reserve any bits of ham or ham hock meat.
2. Refrigerate the meat and stock separately and remove any congealed fat before using.

ALTERNATIVE CUTS:

• Diced smoked pork chops, meat from cooked ham hocks, or diced Canadian bacon.

COOK’S NOTES:

• Adding the poached eggs makes this a substantial lunch.