Fit for a Crowd, Fit for Company
This recipe was passed down from my wife’s grandmother Gammy Brown to my wife’s mother, Audrey, and eventually to Nancy. Neither of them ever measured anything or wrote down recipes. No two deviled hams were alike, but damned if they weren’t all good. Gammy Brown came from New Hampshire, where cob-smoked hams were enjoyed during the holidays. There were always plenty of leftovers, which were needed to feed the family members still hanging around a day or two after the feast. Deviled ham was a popular solution. Spread it on sandwiches or serve it as a snack or hors d’oeuvre on rye toasts, crackers, or crostini, or piped (or spooned) into celery stalks. Gammy Brown would never have used shallots or olive oil, but this is Nancy’s interpretation. Feel free to change it to suit your family’s tastes.
Makes 3 cups (enough for 12 as an hors d’oeuvre or 6 sandwiches)
INGREDIENTS:
- 1 tablespoon olive oil
- ¼ cup chopped shallots
- 2½ cups ½-inch-diced leftover ham
- ½ cup finely chopped celery, including leafy tops
- ¼ cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
- 1 tablespoon prepared horseradish, or more to taste
- 2 tablespoons Dijon mustard, or more to taste
- ⅓ cup mayonnaise, or more if needed
- ¼ cup finely chopped dill pickles, sweet pickles, or cornichons (optional)
- Freshly ground black pepper
INSTRUCTIONS:
- Heat the oil in a small skillet over medium heat. Add the shallots and cook until soft, about 3 minutes. Transfer to a medium bowl.
- Put the ham into a food processor and pulse until coarsely chopped. Transfer to the bowl with the shallots. Add the celery, parsley, horseradish, mustard, mayonnaise, pickles (if using), and pepper to taste and stir to combine. Taste for seasonings. Add more horseradish, mustard, and/or pepper to taste and add more mayonnaise if the mixture seems too dry.
- Pack the deviled ham into an attractive crock or serving bowl and serve at room temperature. (Or cover and refrigerate for up to 1 week. Let sit at room temperature for 30 minutes before serving.)
