On cold days in winter, I ladle soups and stews into my family’s empty bowls to help combat the bone-chilling cold. We favor simple broths, vegetable soups, and heartier meat stews, but, when I can, I make this stew. Once a month I order five dozen oysters, which we eat raw on the half shell or lightly broiled, but we also enjoy them served simply in an old-fashioned oyster and potato stew. Milk and cream complement the oysters’ natural sweetness, while potatoes add body to an otherwise humble broth. Oysters do not benefit from long cooking, which is why they’re often preferred in their raw and unadulterated form, so take care not to leave them simmering in the milky broth for too long. Turn off the heat and ladle the soup into bowls just as the edges of each oyster begin to ruffle.
SERVES: 4 TO 6
INGREDIENTS:
- 1 tablespoon unsalted butter
- 1 leek, white and light green parts only, thinly sliced
- 1 large russet potato, peeled and chopped into ½-inch cubes
- 2 cups shucked oysters with their liquor
- 2 cups whole milk
- 1 bay leaf
- ¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper
- 1 cup heavy cream
- Finely ground unrefined sea salt
INSTRUCTIONS:
- Melt the butter in a heavy stockpot over medium heat. When it foams, stir in the leek and fry until softened, about 3 minutes. Stir in the potato, oyster liquor, milk, and bay leaf. Bring to a simmer, cover, and cook for about 30 minutes, or until the potatoes are tender.
- Stir in the oysters and cayenne pepper. Simmer them until the edges of the oysters begin to curl and ruffle, only a minute or two.
- Stir in the heavy cream, season with salt, ladle into soup bowls, and serve.
