Calabrese pork ragù with fennel

Pancetta, cured Italian bacon, is available at many supermarkets; you’ll also find it at specialty stores and in Italian markets.

YIELDS: 8 cups of sauce , enough for about 1 lb. of pasta;

SERVES: 8

INGREDIENTS:

• 3 lb. pork butt or shoulder (from about a 7-lb. bone-in shoulder) or 3 lb. packaged ground pork
• 2 Tbs. olive oil; more as needed
• 6 oz. pancetta, finely chopped
• 1 large yellow onion, chopped
• 1 Tbs. finely chopped garlic
• 1 Tbs. fennel seeds, crushed
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 1 tsp. sugar
• 1 tsp. dried oregano
• 1 bay leaf
• 1 tsp. dried red pepper flakes
• 1 cup dry white wine
• 2 cups canned puréed tomatoes
• 3/4 cup tomato paste
• Unsalted butter, 1/2 Tbs. per serving; more to taste
• 1 lb. pasta, cooked al dente
• Freshly grated Parmesan (optional)

INSTRUCTIONS:

1. If using pork butt or shoulder, cut off any skin and discard, and then cut the meat off the bone into chunks about 1 inch or so. In a food processor, pulse the pork in batches, about five times for a few seconds each time; set aside.
2. Heat the olive oil in a large heavy-based pot over medium heat. Add the pancetta and onion and sauté, stirring occasionally, until browned, 12 to 15 minutes.
3. Add the garlic and crushed fennel and stir for about 2 minutes. Transfer to a large bowl.
4. Increase the heat to medium high. In the same pot, add just enough of the ground pork to make one layer. If using packaged ground meat, don’t crumble it; instead, break it into pieces (about 1 inch) to brown. Season with salt and pepper. Brown the meat all over, stirring occasionally, 3 to 5 minutes. Transfer the first batch of meat to the bowl and sear the remaining pork in batches, if
   necessary; add more olive oil as needed.
5. Return all the seared pork and the onion mixture to the pot. Add the sugar, oregano, bay leaf, red pepper, 2 tsp. salt, and 11/2 tsp. pepper, and stir to combine. Pour in the wine to deglaze the pot, stirring up any browned bits stuck to the bottom of the pan. Let the wine reduce by at least half. Add the tomato purée and tomato paste and bring the sauce to a boil (the mixture will be thick).
6. Add 1/2 cup of water, reduce the heat, and simmer the sauce, stirring occasionally, for 11/2 to 2 hours. As it cooks, juices will evaporate; add more water periodically, letting it reduce after each addition, to total 11/2 to 2 cups. After 11/2 hours, the meat should be tender and the flavors melded. Remove and discard the bay leaf. Immediately before serving, whisk 1/2 Tbs. butter per
   serving into the sauce and toss with the pasta. Serve sprinkled with Parmesan, if you like.