In the autumn, migratory birds like the goose gorge themselves in preparation for the long flight south. With this instinctive practice, geese stuff themselves with forage, fattening their livers. After discovering the fattened livers of the autumn goose, farmers began to force-feed geese to produce the delectable treat foie gras. While the ethics behind the production of foie gras will always remain a source of contention, the magnificent, buttery flavor of fattened goose liver is incomparable. When I can, I buy liver fattened by the goose’s instinctual seasonal gorging. Farmers keeping geese sell these livers, which taste a good deal like foie gras but are not as large nor as tender, in the autumn. They disappear from markets quickly, so you must be ever vigilant should you want to pick up a few pounds and tuck them away in your freezer for a special occasion. This mousse is excellent spread thickly on slices of sourdough bread with toasted almonds or home-cured olives offered alongside.
MAKES: ABOUT 2 CUPS
INGREDIENTS:
- 8 ounces fatty goose livers Milk, for soaking the livers
- ½ cup plus 2 tablespoons unsalted butter
- 1 shallot, very finely minced
- ¼ cup chopped dried Mission figs
- ¼ cup brandy
- ½ teaspoon ground coriander
- ¼ teaspoon ground allspice
- ¼ teaspoon ground white pepper
- ½ cup heavy cream, preferably raw
INSTRUCTIONS:
- Trim the livers of any membrane or sinew, slice them into thin strips about ¼ inch thick, then toss them in a bowl and cover with milk. Transfer to the refrigerator and let the livers soak for 8 to 12 hours. Drain away the milk and pat the livers dry.
- Melt the 2 tablespoons of butter in a skillet over medium heat. When it froths, stir in the shallot and sauté for about 4 minutes, until it softens and releases its fragrance. Decrease the heat to medium-low, toss in the livers, and cook until they brown on the outside and stiffen slightly but remain ever so slightly pink on the inside, 4 to 6 minutes. Stir in the figs and brandy and simmer over medium-low heat until the liquid has mostly evaporated, about 8 minutes.
- Let the liver mixture cool for about 5 minutes, then transfer to a food processor and add the coriander, allspice, and pepper. Pulse once or twice to combine, then process continuously, dropping the remaining ½ cup of butter about 1 tablespoon at a time through the feed tube. Then, in a thin stream, dribble in the cream.
- Spoon the mousse into a fine-mesh sieve or a chinois set over a large bowl. Press the mousse through the sieve to remove any bits of grit or remaining sinew. Spoon the mousse into individual ramekins or into a serving dish, cover tightly, and refrigerate. It should keep for about 2 weeks. Remember to pull the mousse out of the fridge about 30 minutes before you serve it to give it time to soften.
