sherried chicken liver pâté with apples and sage

I prepare pâté every few weeks, cap it with clarified butter so that it will keep, and dip into it from time to time when I need a quick lunch or a light snack. I make this version in the fall, when apples from the market tumble through my kitchen door by the bushel, and before all the sage in my garden withers away for winter. The key to a light, perfectly smooth pâté is to puree it until thoroughly smooth, then press it through a fine-mesh sieve or a chinois to remove any grit or remaining sinew. I struggled for years with thick and pasty pâté before learning this technique.

SERVES: 4 TO 6

INGREDIENTS:

• 1 pound chicken livers, trimmed of any sinew Milk,
• to marinate the chicken livers 1 cup plus 2 tablespoons clarified butter
• 1 shallot, finely minced
• 1 medium apple, cored, peeled, and chopped
• 2 tablespoons chopped fresh sage
• ½ cup dry sherry

INSTRUCTIONS:

1. Put the chicken livers in a large mixing bowl, cover them with milk, and let them marinate in the refrigerator for at least 4 and up to 12 hours. Drain the livers, discarding the milk, and pat them dry with a kitchen towel.
2. Melt the 2 tablespoons of clarified butter in a wide skillet over medium heat. Stir in the shallot and fry until translucent, soft, and fragrant, about 4 minutes. Stir in the apple and sage and cook until the apple is tender, about 8 minutes. Add the livers to the pan and cook until browned on the outside but still slightly pink in the center, about 8 minutes. Stir in the sherry and simmer for another 3 to 5 minutes, until most of the liquid evaporates. Turn off the heat and allow the mixture to cool for about 5 minutes.
3. Transfer the liver mixture to a food processor. Pulse 2 or 3 times, then process continuously, adding the remaining 1 cup of clarified butter about 1 tablespoon at a time through the feed tube.
4. Transfer the pâté to a fine-mesh sieve or a chinois set over a bowl. Press it through the screen to remove any tough bits. Spoon the pâté into ramekins, cover well, and transfer to the refrigerator for at least 4 hours and up to 5 days.
5. Remove the pâté from the refrigerator 20 to 30 minutes before serving so it can come to room temperature and soften slightly.