Winter squash combined with leeks, lemon zest, and pecans makes this dish an ode to the season. I enjoyed but didn’t swoon over butternut squash until local farmer Baptiste Bourdon began cultivating it several years ago. Now it’s a favorite; I savor it as much for its fine texture and delicate flavor as for its familiarity. Because it is a relatively
unknown squash in France, Baptiste has had to do some serious marketing to get his customers to buy it, and I love hearing him describe the virtues of “boot-air-noot.” Whichever squash you decide to use here, make sure it is fresh and local.
Makes 4 to 6 servings
Ingredients:
1 tablespoon (15 g) unsalted butter
1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
2 large leeks, thoroughly cleaned, trimmed, and cut into rounds ¼ inch (.6 cm) thick
Fine sea salt
1 small (2-pound/1-kg), rm winter squash, such as butternut, red kuri,
ambercup, or hubbard, peeled, seeded, and cut into ½-inch (1.25-cm) cubes (to give 6 cups cubes)
Zest of 1 lemon, preferably organic, minced
1/3 cup (3 g) flat-leaf parsley leaves
1/3 cup (40 g) pecans, lightly toasted and coarsely chopped
Note: Despite being hardy, most varieties of squash are delicate and cook more quickly than you think they will. Handle it gently, and stay close to the stove as it cooks so it doesn’t overcook.
Directions:
1. Place the butter and the olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat. As the butter melts, stir it with the oil. As soon as the fats coat the bottom of the pan, add the leeks, stir to coat them with butter and oil, season lightly with salt, cover, and cook, stirring regularly, until the leeks are tender and slightly golden on the edges, about 8 minutes.
Add the squash, lemon zest, and 3 tablespoons water and stir so the squash is thoroughly moistened. Season lightly with salt, cover, and cook, occasionally stirring very carefully to avoid breaking up the squash and adding water a tablespoon at a time if needed to keep the squash from sticking to the bottom of the pan, until the squash is
tender through, 15 to 18 minutes.
2. Mince the parsley, remove the squash from the heat, and fold in the parsley and pecans. Season to taste and transfer to a serving bowl.
Serve immediately.
