Salsa Verde (Cooked Tomatillo Salsa)

Green salsa goes especially well with pork and egg dishes, though you can use it anywhere. To keep this on the mild side, substitute another poblano for the hot fresh chile. If in-your-face heat is what you’re looking for, add even more hot chiles or some of their seeds.

MAKES: About 2 cups

TIME: 30 minutes

INGREDIENTS:

• 10 to 12 tomatillos, husked and rinsed
• 2 medium poblano or other mild fresh green chiles, roasted and cleaned (see page 330)
• 1 or 2 serrano or other hot fresh green chiles (optional), roasted and cleaned (page 330)
• 3 tablespoons neutral oil, like grapeseed or corn
• 2 large onions, diced
• 5 cloves garlic, minced
• 1 teaspoon Mexican or other oregano
• 1 cup vegetable stock or water
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 1/2 cup chopped fresh cilantro leaves
• 1/4 cup freshly squeezed lime juice

INSTRUCTIONS:

1. Heat the oven to 400°F. Put the tomatillos on a baking sheet and roast until the skins are lightly browned and blistered, about 20 minutes. Remove the tomatillos; when they’re cool enough to handle, chop them finely, along with the chiles, saving their juices.
2. While the tomatillos are roasting, put the oil in a large deep skillet over medium heat. Add the onions and garlic and cook, stirring occasionally, until they are very soft and lightly browned, about 10 minutes.
3. Add the tomatillos, chiles, oregano, stock, and a large pinch of salt and pepper; stir and bring to a low simmer. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the mixture thickens slightly, 10 to 15 minutes.
4. Stir in the cilantro and lime juice, taste, and adjust the seasoning. Serve at room temperature or refrigerate for up to 2 days.

VARIATIONS:

• Green Enchilada Salsa: Use an immersion blender to purée the finished sauce in the pan. Or cool the mixture slightly, pour into a blender or food processor, and purée carefully.
• Green Chile Salsa: Milder and simpler. Increase the chiles to 5 poblanos; omit the tomatillos and serranos. Decrease the stock to 1/4 cup, more or less, as needed. Proceed with Steps 1 and 2; then use an immersion blender to purée the salsa. Or cool the mixture slightly, pour into a blender or food processor, and purée carefully. Proceed with Step 3.
• Pumpkin Seed Sauce: Thick and with a toasted nut flavor like green mole, only much easier. Toast or roast 1 cup green pumpkin seeds (pepitas; see page 317) and pulse them several times in a food processor until finely chopped. Add them to the onion-garlic mixture in Step 2, along with 1 tablespoon chopped fresh epazote if you like. Proceed with the recipe.
• Super-Hot Chile-Garlic Salsa: Substitute 3 to 5 habaneros for the poblanos and serranos; omit the tomatillos, onion, oregano, and stock. Put the habaneros and garlic in a small skillet over medium heat. Cook, shaking the skillet occasionally, until the garlic and chiles are brown (or partially wrap the garlic and chiles in foil and roast in a 400°F oven for about 30 minutes). Stem and seed the chiles (wear gloves, if you have them, or wash your hands thoroughly). Put the chiles, garlic, cilantro, and lime juice in a food processor or blender and purée until pasty.