Comfort Food, Great Leftovers
This is the French answer to corned beef, a tradition in which tougher and/or fattier cuts of pork were cured in an aromatic brine by the local butcher. Patrons could purchase their favorite pieces to cook in the French version of a “boiled dinner.” Petit salé pork has a different flavor from that of corned beef, but it can be substituted (see Cook’s Notes). My preferred cuts for petit salé pork are picnic shoulder, Boston butt, and, especially, pork belly with the spareribs attached. Whole skinned boneless pork belly without the ribs is also good, as is blade-end pork loin. When making petit salé pork, try an assortment of various cuts. If using a picnic shoulder, cut into 2 smaller pieces so that they can be cured in less time. If using a Boston butt, split the butt into 2 pieces, cutting parallel to the fat cap. If using pork belly, cut into 2- to 3-pound pieces.
Makes 3½ to 7 pounds
INGREDIENTS:
- 4–8 pounds various pork cuts (see headnote)
- Basic Wet Brine
- 1 cup dry white wine
- 2 tablespoons crushed juniper berries
- 6 fresh thyme sprigs
- 4 shallots, thinly sliced
- 6 bay leaves
- 1 tablespoon pickling spices, homemade or store-bought
- 12 whole allspice berries
- 4 whole cloves
- 6 garlic cloves, crushed
INSTRUCTIONS:
- Put the meat in a large plastic storage container or large zipper-lock bag and add the brine and all the remaining ingredients. Weight with a plate and cure in the refrigerator for 4 days. (This is a rough estimate; keep notes and make adjustments to the curing time the next time you prepare the recipe.)
- Remove the pork from the brine, rinse, and pat dry. Poach in water until tender, 1½ to 3 hours, depending on the cut. (Refrigerate for up to 1 week or freeze for up to 2 months.)
COOK’S NOTES:
- To substitute petit salé pork in the Irish Corned Beef and Vegetables, replace the Guinness with 2 cups dry white wine. Add 2 chopped leeks and 4 peeled turnips and replace the green cabbage with savoy cabbage.
