Nashville Turnip Greens With Ham Hock

One Alfred Leland Crabb, writing about Nashville, Tennessee, some fifty years ago, proclaimed the city the turnip green and hog jowl center of the universe, and traced its obsession with the dish back to 1810. While I’m not sure the turnip greens I’ve eaten in Nashville are necessarily superior to those simmered with ham hock or other side meat in every other state of the Confederacy, I must say that a mess of greens once included on a “meat-n-three” platter at Nashville’s venerable Loveless Cafe is a memory that lingers. What is for sure is that boiled turnip greens (like collards) have been one of the backbones of authentic Southern cookery for centuries, a staple that has survived every social, economic, and culinary crisis imaginable and that, to this day, is still served, along with hoppin’ John, as a harbinger of good luck each and every New Year’s Day (the very logical reason being that the green color and crisp texture of the leaves before cooking represent folding money). A cardinal sin is not to remove the stems and ribs of the leaves, and do remember that, for ultimate flavor, the greens must be simmered with the meat long and slowly—and to hell with texture. As for the ham hock, most Southerners like to trim it, chop the meat, and serve it over the greens. And should you toss the sublime pot likker left over in the bottom of the pot? Don’t be crazy. It’s for dunking cornbread. Use this same recipe for boiled mustard greens or collards.

MAKES: 8 servings

INGREDIENTS:

• 4 pounds turnip greens
• 1 medium smoked ham hock, skin removed
• 1 tablespoon sugar
• 2 teaspoons salt
• 2 medium onions, coarsely chopped
• 1 cup cider vinegar
• Freshly ground black pepper to taste

INSTRUCTIONS:

1. Remove and discard the stems and ribs of the turnip greens. Place the leaves in a sink or large pot of cold water.
2. Swish the greens around in the water to remove all the dirt and grit. Repeat this procedure with fresh water if necessary.
3. Tear the leaves into several pieces each and set them aside.
4. Place the smoked ham hock in a large pot and add enough water to cover it.
5. Bring the water to a boil, then reduce the heat to low and simmer for 15 minutes.
6. Add the sugar and salt to the pot and return to a boil.
7. Gradually add the torn turnip greens to the pot.
8. Reduce the heat to low, cover the pot, and simmer the greens until they become very soft and tender, which should take about 1 hour.
9. In a medium mixing bowl, combine the coarsely chopped onions, cider vinegar, and freshly ground black pepper. Stir the mixture until well blended.
10. Drain the cooked greens well in a colander.
11. Transfer the greens to a large serving bowl and top them with the onions and vinegar mixture.
12. Toss the greens, onions, and vinegar together until well combined.
13. Pour any remaining liquid (likker) from the pot into a separate bowl. This liquid can be served for dunking cornbread.
14. Serve the seasoned turnip greens with the onions and vinegar on top, and provide the likker for dunking cornbread.