Mushroom-Stuffed Lamb T-Bone Loin Chops

Fit for Company, In a Hurry, Wood-Fired Oven

By partially separating the meat from the T-shaped bone, you can create a space to insert a few tablespoons of a richly flavored stuffing that elevates these chops from great to sublime. Best of all, this method couldn’t be easier. Besides the mushroom and cheese stuffing here, you can use other combinations. My wife, Nancy, who gave me the idea, makes a great stuffing of chopped cooked broccoli rabe and mascarpone or cream cheese (see Cook’s Notes for other ideas).

Serves 4

INGREDIENTS:

• 8 2-inch-thick lamb T-bone loin chops (if possible, have the butcher leave the tail flaps on the chops)
• 1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme
• 1 teaspoon chopped fresh rosemary
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 2 tablespoons olive oil

MUSHROOM AND CHEESE STUFFING:

• 2 tablespoons butter
• ½ pound cremini mushrooms, thickly sliced
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 1 tablespoon chopped garlic
• ½ cup soft bread crumbs made from day-old bread
• ¼ cup grated Comté or Gruyère cheese
• ¼ cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
• 2 teaspoons chopped fresh thyme
• 2 teaspoons chopped fresh rosemary
• 3 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
• 2 tablespoons homemade beef stock or canned low-sodium chicken broth, or more if needed

INSTRUCTIONS:

1. Stuffing: Heat the butter in a large nonstick skillet over medium heat. Add the mushrooms, sprinkle generously with salt and pepper, and cook, stirring, for 3minutes. Stir in the garlic and cook until the mushrooms are soft, about 5 minutes. Transfer the mushrooms and any liquid to a food processor and pulse several times to coarsely chop. Add the bread crumbs, cheeses, thyme, rosemary, and parsley. Pulse several more times to combine. Transfer to a large bowl and stir in the stock 1 tablespoon at a time. The stuffing should be moist but not wet. Add more stock if needed. Season to taste with salt and pepper. To firm up the stuffing, cover and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes, or overnight.
2. Preheat the oven to 350°F.
3. Stand the chops on the flat part of the T (like an upside-down capital T) and, using a sharp boning knife, cut between the meat and the T-bone to separate the meat from both sides of the bone, leaving the meat attached at the base of the bone. Firmly press about 2 tablespoons stuffing onto each side of the T-bone and then re-form the chop. If the tail is attached, put a little stuffing between the tail and the body of the chop. Secure each chop by wrapping butcher’s twine twice around the perimeter. Sprinkle the chops all over with the thyme, rosemary, and salt and pepper to taste.
4. Heat the oil in a large ovenproof skillet over medium-high heat. Add the chops to the pan and brown for 2 to 3 minutes. Flip and brown the other side for 2 to 3 minutes more. You may have to do this in batches.
5. Remove the chops, pour off the fat, and then stand the chops up in the pan—use the flat part of the T-bone to stabilize them, keeping the meat from contacting the pan. Roast for 10 minutes, or until the internal temperature reaches 125°F on an instant-read thermometer, for medium-rare. Transfer the chops to a platter, cover loosely with aluminum foil, and let rest for 5 to 7 minutes. Remove the twine before serving.

ALTERNATIVE CUTS:

• Lamb rib chops (at least 1½ inches thick) into which you can cut a pocket; the stuffing will not cook for long, so use precooked ingredients, as in the bulgur, mint, and feta stuffing (see below).

COOK’S NOTES:

To roast the chops in a wood-fired oven, omit the browning step. Arrange the chops vertically, resting on the flat side of the T-bone, in an ovenproof skillet and roast for about 15 minutes, or until they reach an internal temperature of 120°F on an instant-read thermometer, for medium-rare. Let rest for 5 minutes.

Here are some other ideas for stuffing:

• Soft bread crumbs, fresh goat cheese, cooked spinach, and fresh chives
• Soft bread crumbs, chopped picholine olives, and chopped fresh basil
• Soft bread crumbs, finely chopped prosciutto or smoked ham, and fontina cheese
• Soft bread crumbs, porcini mushrooms, Parmigiano-Reggiano, and fresh thyme leaves
• Soft bread crumbs, chopped pitted prunes, and chopped sautéed fennel
• Cooked rice, dried cherries, and chopped fresh rosemary
• Cooked bulgur, chopped fresh mint, and feta cheese