Moroccan-Style Lamb Kebabs

Family Meal

I’m drawn to Moroccan food because of its copious use of spices and fruits. Fresh lemon juice flavors marinades, condiments, and stews, and lemons are also preserved, to be used throughout the year, when fresh ones are out of season. Preserving lemons in salt and lemon juice mellows the bitterness, while balancing their aromatic notes.
Preserved lemons go particularly well with lamb. You can purchase them, but they are easy to make yourself. Serve these kebabs over basmati rice or couscous with lots of Yogurt-Lemon Sauce drizzled over.

Serves 6

INGREDIENTS:

• Cooked basmati rice or couscous (optional)
• 4 12-inch metal skewers
• 2½ pounds boneless leg of lamb or lamb sirloin steak, trimmed of excess fat and cut into 2-inch chunks
• 1 sweet onion (such as Walla Walla) or red onion, cut into 1-inch pieces
• 1 red bell pepper, cored, seeded, and cut into 1-inch squares
• 1 yellow bell pepper, cored, seeded, and cut into 1-inch squares

LEMON MARINADE:

• 4 wedges Preserved Lemons (recipe follows)
• ¼ cup fresh lemon juice
• 6 garlic cloves, peeled
• 1 ⅛-inch-thick slice fresh ginger
• 1 teaspoon dried marjoram
• 1 teaspoon ground coriander
• 1 teaspoon ground cumin
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• ½ teaspoon turmeric
• 3 tablespoons olive oil

YOGURT-LEMON SAUCE: 

• 2 tablespoons reserved lemon marinade paste
• 1 seedless cucumber, cut into ½-inch dice
• ½ cup chopped fresh cilantro
• 2 cups plain whole-milk Greek yogurt
• Salt

PRESERVED LEMONS

Makes 4 cups

• 8 lemons
• 1 cup kosher salt (I use Diamond Crystal)Olive oil
• 1½–2 cups fresh lemon juice
• Olive oil

INSTRUCTIONS:

1. Marinade: Put all the ingredients in a blender and puree to make a coarse paste. Set aside 2 tablespoons for the yogurt sauce. Put the lamb in a large zipper-lock bag and scrape in the remaining marinade. Seal the bag and massage it to coat all the lamb. Marinate for 2 hours at room temperature, or as long as overnight in the
   refrigerator, turning from time to time to redistribute the marinade.
2. Set up a charcoal or gas grill for medium-high heat. Oil the grill grate.
3. Remove the lamb from the marinade and place in a bowl. Put the onion and peppers in the bag and massage them to coat with the marinade (it’s okay if the onion pieces break apart). Transfer to another bowl and discard the marinade. Thread the lamb and vegetables onto the skewers, threading a piece of onion and
   pepper between each chunk of lamb. If there are extra peppers or onion, thread them onto separate skewers, if you like.
4. Grill the skewers, turning every 3 to 4 minutes, for about 10 minutes for medium rare. Cut into a few pieces of lamb to be sure they are done.
5. Meanwhile, make the sauce: Combine the reserved 2 tablespoons marinade with the cucumber, cilantro, and yogurt in a bowl. Season with salt to taste. Mix well. (Don’t make the sauce more than an hour before serving, or it will be become watery.)
6. Remove the lamb and vegetables from the skewers and serve them in a mound, heaped over basmati rice or couscous (if using). Drizzle some of the sauce over the kebabs and pass the rest at the table.

PRESERVED LEMONS

1. Wash the lemons well, using plenty of hot water to get rid of any wax. Dry them well. Cut each lemon lengthwise into 8 wedges. Remove any visible seeds. Put the wedges in a bowl and toss with the salt.
2. Pack the lemons into a 1-quart jar with a glass or plastic lid (metal will rust), scraping any salt and juice from the bowl into the jar. Cover the lemons with lemon juice, leaving about ½ inch of space at the top. Put the lid on loosely and let the jar sit at cool room temperature for 1 week to pickle. Tighten the lid and shake the jar from time to time to redistribute the salt and juices, then loosen the lid again.
3. After a week at room temperature, add enough olive oil to fill the air space at the top. Cover tightly and refrigerate. (The preserved lemons will keep well in the refrigerator for up to 6 months.)

ALTERNATIVE CUTS:

• Boneless lamb shoulder but take care to trim away any sinew and excess fat. Goat leg meat. This is also a great marinade for rib or loin lamb chops.

COOK’S NOTE: 

• During the summer, complete the meal with slices of grilled summer squash, such as yellow crookneck, zucchini, or pattypan.
• When the squash is done, brush it with a bit of the Yogurt-Lemon Sauce.