Like corned beef, yogurt, sauerkraut, and other fermented or naturally cured foods, gravlax was born of necessity. Before freezer cases and fish farms, salmon offered only a short season of abundance, forcing the seafaring communities of northern Europe to preserve it for long-term storage by burying it in sand at the high tide line—hence the literal translation of “grave salmon.” No longer buried in sand, gravlax is cured with a dry rub of salt and sugar, with spices or herbs added to the rub at the cook’s discretion. The salt and sugar tighten the protein fibers of the fish, leaching out its juice to produce a sweet and salty brine that cures the fish. I prepare gravlax at home, slicing off a bit here or there to serve with breakfast or as a light starter before supper. Any combination of coarse salt and sugar works to preserve the fish, but I love the gentle flavor introduced by maple sugar, dill, and juniper berries.
SERVES: 4 TO 6 AS AN APPETIZER
INGREDIENTS:
- ½ cup coarse unrefined sea salt
- ½ cup maple sugar
- 2 tablespoons chopped fresh dill
- 2 tablespoons crushed juniper berries
- 2 (8-ounce) skin-on wildcaught salmon fillets
INSTRUCTIONS:
- Stir together the salt, sugar, dill, and juniper berries.
- Spread a 14-inch piece of cheesecloth on your countertop, and then lay one salmon fillet flesh side up on the waiting cloth. Pour half the salt mixture over the fish and sandwich the other fillet flesh side down on top of the first.
- Season the outside of the salmon fillets with the remaining salt mixture and wrap the sandwiched fillets in the cheesecloth as tightly as you can.
- Place the wrapped salmon in a resealable plastic bag and set the bag on a plate. Place a second plate over the first to weight down the fish and refrigerate. Turn the bag once a day for 3 days.
- After 3 days, remove the fish from the plastic bag and unwrap the cheesecloth. Brush off the curing mixture from the fish, then pat the fillets dry with a clean kitchen towel. The gravlax will keep in the fridge in an airtight container for about 1 week before its flavor begins to suffer. Slice it very thinly, as needed, just before serving.
