Watermelon Rind Pickles

Yes, the process is time-consuming (if basically easy), but I promise you’ll never begrudge the effort once you’ve tasted the pickles. The only cardinal rule is that every trace of pink flesh must be removed from the rind, so be patient. I have jars of watermelon rind pickles that are almost amber, and like pickled peaches, they only improve with age. The one eternal problem is finding a good-hearted vendor willing to either plug the melon or cut it while you’re looking on. These are pickles to put up in quantity.

MAKES: seven 1-pint jars

INGREDIENTS:

• 6 pounds thick watermelon rind
• 2 cups pickling lime (available in Southern supermarkets and by special order from Ball)
• 1 tablespoon alum (available in the spice section of supermarkets)
• 1/2 pound fresh ginger, peeled and cut into quarters
• 6 cups sugar
• 6 cups white vinegar
• 3 cups water
• 1 tablespoon whole allspice
• 1 tablespoon cloves
• Two 3-inch-long cinnamon sticks

INSTRUCTIONS:

1. Remove all the dark green outer rind and all pink flesh from the watermelon rind, discard, and cut the trimmed pale rind into 2-inch fingers. Place the fingers in a large glass or enameled container.
2. Dissolve the lime in 2 gallons of cold water, pour over the rind, cover with plastic wrap, and let soak overnight.
3. In a large container, combine the alum with 1 gallon of cold water, transfer the drained rind fingers to the solution, and let soak for 5 minutes. Drain the rind.
4. In a large, enameled pot, combine the ginger with 1 gallon of cold water, add the rind, bring to a boil, reduce the heat to moderately low, and simmer for 30 minutes. Drain, remove the ginger, and rinse the rind thoroughly under cold running water for exactly 5 minutes. Rinse out the pot.
5. In the pot, combine the sugar, vinegar, 3 cups of water, allspice, cloves, and cinnamon, bring to a boil, and add the rind. Return to a boil, reduce the heat to low, and simmer slowly, uncovered, for 3 hours.
6. Pack the fingers and syrup into seven 1-pint sterilized jars to within 1/4 inch of the tops, seal, and store for at least 4 months at room temperature before serving.