pickled tongue with mustard sauce

Pickling tongue in brine infuses the meat with the flavors of spices like black pepper, sweet bay, coriander, allspice, and clove. Much like corned beef brisket, pickled tongue benefits from a long, slow simmer—a process that renders an otherwise gnarly and tough piece of meat tender. Traditionally, pickled tongue is served cold, but I prefer it stewed with vegetables and served warm with a creamy mustard sauce. While pickling tongue and other meats is not a particularly complex process, it does take time. Remember to begin at least 5 days before you plan to serve the dish.

SERVES: 4 TO 6

INGREDIENTS:

PICKLED TONGUE

• 1 calf’s tongue (about 2 pounds) or 2 pounds beef tongue
• 2 cups whey from Yogurt Cheese or Bonny Clabber
• ½ cup finely ground unrefined sea salt
• ½ cup unrefined cane sugar Water
• 1 tablespoon whole black peppercorns
• ¼ cup Sweet Pickling Spice
• 2 bay leaves

VEGETABLES

• 1 celeriac, peeled and chopped into ½-inch pieces
• 4 carrots, peeled and chopped into ½-inch rounds
• 1 yellow onion, sliced into ¼-inch rounds
• 2 large waxy potatoes, chopped into ½-inch pieces
• 1 small green cabbage, cored and quartered

MUSTARD SAUCE

• 2 tablespoons unsalted butter
• 1 shallot, minced
• ½ cup white wine
• 1 cup heavy cream
• 2 tablespoons Dijon-style mustard
• 2 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

INSTRUCTIONS:

1. Begin preparing your tongue at least 5 days and up to a week before you plan to serve it. First, place the tongue in a large mixing bowl or crock.
2. Whisk the whey, salt, and sugar together in a pitcher large enough to comfortably hold 2 quarts of liquid. Stir in 6 cups of water and drop in the peppercorns, pickling spice, and bay leaves. Pour the brine over the tongue and cover the bowl securely with a lid or with plastic wrap. Place it in your fridge and allow it to rest for 5 to 7 days.
3. When you’re ready to prepare the meal, lift the tongue from the brine and brush off any spices that might adhere to it. Discard the brine and place the tongue in a heavy stockpot. Pour in enough water to cover the tongue by 3 inches. Cover the pot and bring the liquid to a boil over medium-high heat. Decrease the heat to medium and simmer for 1½ hours, or until the tongue can be easily pierced with a knife.
4. Remove the tongue from the pot and place it in a large bowl of very cold water until it’s cool enough to handle. Do not disgard the cooking liquid. Trim away any gristle on the tongue and peel away the skin with a sharp paring knife.
5. Return the tongue to the pot and arrange the celeriac, carrots, onion, potatoes, and celery over the tongue. Cover, bring to a simmer over medium heat, and cook for 30 to 45 minutes, until the vegetables are tender.
6. While the vegetables simmer, prepare the mustard sauce. Melt the butter in a small saucepan over medium heat until it foams. Stir in the shallot, and fry until fragrant and translucent, 2 to 3 minutes. Pour in the wine and simmer until reduced by half, about 5 minutes. Stir in the cream and simmer for 6 to 8 minutes, until the mixture thickens enough to coat a spoon. Whisk in the mustard and parsley.
7. Cut the tongue into slices no thicker than ¼ inch and serve over the vegetables, drizzled with mustard sauce.