Rigatoni with Genovese Ragu

Indulge in the rich and hearty flavors of Genovese sauce, rumored to have been brought down the Italian boot by a talented Neapolitan cook. This sauce boasts the same character as ragu, offering immense satisfaction with every spoonful. However, unlike ragu, Genovese sauce relies on a generous amount of onions, not tomatoes, for its underlying sweetness. The onions are expertly braised with beef short ribs until both reach a tender and velvety consistency, resulting in a luxurious and comforting sauce. For our rendition of this classic Italian sauce, we expertly cook sliced onions in the rendered fat from browned short ribs, allowing the onions to wilt and develop a golden hue. We then reintroduce the ribs to the pot and simmer the sauce for two hours, allowing the meat to become tender and succulent while the onions turn silky and sweet. A small amount of tomato paste is added to provide undeniable depth of flavor, taking this sauce to new heights. To prevent the sauce from becoming greasy, it is essential to trim as much fat as possible from the beef’s short ribs. A 6-quart Dutch oven and a 12-quart stockpot are essential tools for crafting this indulgent and mouthwatering Genovese sauce.

INGREDIENTS:

• 4 pounds of beef short ribs, trimmed
• Salt and pepper
• 1 tablespoon vegetable oil
• 4 ounces pancetta, cut into ¼-inch pieces
• 2 carrots, peeled and cut into ¼-inch pieces
• 2 celery ribs, cut into ¼-inch pieces
• 4 pounds onions, halved and sliced thin
• 2 tablespoons tomato paste
• 1 tablespoon minced fresh marjoram or thyme
• 1 cup dry white wine
• 2 pounds rigatoni
• Grated Pecorino Romano cheese

PREPARATIONS:

1. Pat ribs dry with paper towels and season with salt and pepper. Heat oil in a large Dutch oven over medium-high heat until just smoking. Brown half of the ribs well on all sides, 8 to 10 minutes; transfer to a plate. Repeat with remaining ribs using fat left in the pot; transfer to a plate.
2. Pour off all but 1 tablespoon of fat left in the pot, add pancetta, and cook over medium heat until pancetta is lightly browned about 6 minutes. Stir in carrots and celery and cook until just softened 5 to 7 minutes.
3. Stir in onions and ¼ teaspoon salt. Increase heat to high, cover, and cook, stirring occasionally, until onions are wilted and release their moisture, about 10 minutes. Uncover, reduce heat to medium-high, and continue to cook, stirring often, until onions are golden brown 8 to 10 minutes.
4. Stir in tomato paste and marjoram and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add wine and simmer for 2 minutes. Nestle beef, with any accumulated juice, into the pot and bring to a gentle simmer. Reduce heat to low, cover, and simmer gently, turning ribs occasionally, until meat is very tender and falling off bones, about 2 hours.
5. Transfer ribs to a plate, let cool slightly, then shred meat into bite-size pieces, discarding fat and bones. Meanwhile, return the sauce to simmer and cook, stirring often, until slightly thickened and creamy, 12 to 15 minutes. Stir in shredded meat and season with salt and pepper to taste.
6. Meanwhile, bring 8 quarts of water to a boil in a 12-quart pot. Add pasta and 2 tablespoons of salt and cook, stirring often, until al dente. Reserve 1½ cups cooking water, then drain the pasta and return it to the pot. Add the sauce and ½ cup cooking water; toss to combine. Season with salt and pepper to taste and add the remaining reserved cooking water as needed to adjust consistency. Serve with grated Pecorino Romano cheese.

YIELD: 8 servings

SPECIAL INSTRUCTIONS:

• Trim as much fat as possible from the beef short ribs to prevent the sauce from becoming greasy.

TIPS:

• Use a generous amount of onions to achieve the authentic sweetness of Genovese sauce.
• Cook the onions until they turn golden brown for a rich and velvety sauce.

In conclusion, Genovese sauce is a culinary marvel that delivers rich, hearty, and immensely satisfying flavors. Rumored to have been brought down the Italian boot by a skilled Neapolitan cook, this sauce rivals the character of ragu while relying on onions, not tomatoes, for its delightful sweetness. The combination of tender beef short ribs and a hefty amount of sliced onions braised to perfection results in a sauce that is rich, velvety, and profoundly comforting.

The cooking process of this Genovese sauce requires a bit of time and patience, but the result is nothing short of a culinary masterpiece. Cooking the onions until they wilt and turn golden brown is essential for achieving the perfect sauce consistency and unlocking the onions’ inherent sweetness. The addition of tomato paste and dry white wine brings an undeniable depth of flavor to the sauce, elevating it to a level of complexity that delights the taste buds.

The beauty of Genovese sauce lies in its versatility, making it an ideal accompaniment to a variety of pasta shapes. Rigatoni, with its hollow tubes that capture the sauce, is a perfect choice for this indulgent and hearty sauce. As the pasta is coated in luxurious sauce and garnished with grated Pecorino Romano cheese, it becomes a delightful dish that warms the soul and satisfies the appetite.

Crafting this sumptuous Genovese sauce requires a 6-quart Dutch oven and a 12-quart stockpot to ensure ample space for the delicious ingredients to come together in harmony. The sauce simmers gently for two hours, allowing the beef short ribs to become fall-off-the-bone tender, and the onions to develop a silky and sweet consistency.

As you take your first bite of this comforting and authentic Italian dish, you’ll be transported to the charming streets of Naples, where the Genovese sauce is rumored to have originated. Each mouthful is a celebration of the rich culinary traditions passed down through generations, creating an experience that is both timeless and unforgettable.

In conclusion, Genovese sauce is a true gem of Italian cuisine, and its delightful simplicity showcases the beauty of the culinary traditions that have stood the test of time. As you savor the rich flavors of this velvety sauce, you’ll understand why it continues to be cherished and celebrated by food enthusiasts around the world.