Salsa Roja (Cooked Tomato Salsa)

This classic cooked tomato and chile sauce can be served chunky or puréed and used for enchiladas, tacos, or whatever you like. The guajillo chiles called for here lend a complex, smoky flavor, and moderate heat. If you want a milder salsa, substitute ancho or other mild chiles.

MAKES: About 2 cups

TIME: 45 to 50 minutes

INGREDIENTS:

• 2 large guajillos or other medium-hot dried chiles, toasted, soaked, and cleaned (see page 70), soaking water reserved
• 1/4 cup neutral oil, like grapeseed or corn
• 2 large onions, chopped
• 4 cloves garlic, minced
• 2 pounds tomatoes, peeled, seeded, cored, and chopped, with their liquid (about 3 cups; canned are fine)
• 1 tablespoon sugar
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro leaves
• 3 tablespoons freshly squeezed lime juice

INSTRUCTIONS:

1. Mince the chiles. Put the oil in a medium saucepan or deep skillet with a lid over medium-high heat. When hot, add the chiles, onions, and garlic and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onions soften, about 5 minutes.
2. Add the tomatoes, sugar, some salt, and plenty of pepper. Adjust the heat so the mixture bubbles gently and cook, stirring occasionally, until the mixture has thickened and come together, about 20 minutes. If the salsa gets too thick, thin it with some of the reserved chile-soaking water or plain water.
3. Stir in the cilantro and lime juice. Taste and adjust the seasoning if necessary. Serve hot or at room temperature or refrigerate for up to 2 days.

VARIATIONS:

• Red Enchilada Sauce: Use an immersion blender to purée the sauce in the pan. Or cool the mixture slightly, pour into a blender or food processor, and purée carefully.
• Salsa Borracha: In Step 1, add a bottle of beer with the tomatoes. (It might take a little longer to thicken.) Use an immersion blender to purée the finished sauce in the pan. Or cool the mixture slightly, pour into a blender or food processor, and purée carefully. Finish with 2 tablespoons (about a shot) of tequila if you like.
• Charred Salsa Roja: Cut the tomatoes and onions into thick slices and grill on both sides until charred, about 10 minutes total. Proceed with the recipe; add 2 tablespoons or so of chopped fresh mint along with the cilantro if you like, in Step 3.
• Chipotle Salsa Roja: Toast, soak, and clean a chipotle chile along with the others. Or add a canned chipotle chile with its adobo along with the tomatoes.
• Salsa Sofrito: Substitute Roasted Red (or yellow) Peppers (page 330) for the guajillos; replace the cilantro with a tablespoon or so of chopped fresh oregano leaves, and use red wine vinegar instead of the lime juice.