Homemade Mayonnaise

I have made mayonnaise countless times with blender, food processor, and whisk, and though the machines make things marginally easier, all techniques are foolproof if you follow the preceding suggestions (see “Demystifying Mayo”) along with this recipe. What will change is the texture of the mayonnaise when you make additions. By hand, there will always be bits and pieces of the stir-ins for a more rustic sauce. By machine, the mayonnaise will be smooth and evenly colored.

MAKES: 1 cup

TIME: 10 minutes

INGREDIENTS:

• 1 egg yolk
• 2 teaspoons Dijon mustard
• 1 cup neutral oil, like grapeseed or corn, or extra virgin olive oil
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 1 tablespoon sherry vinegar, white wine vinegar, or freshly squeezed lemon juice

INSTRUCTIONS:

BY HAND:

1. Put the yolk and mustard in a medium bowl. Beat together with a wire whisk.
2. Begin to add the oil in dribbles as you beat, adding more as each amount is incorporated.
3. You’ll notice when a thick emulsion forms, then you can add the remaining oil a little faster.
4. Depending on how fast you beat, the whole process will take about 5 minutes.

BY MACHINE:

1. Put the yolk and mustard in a blender or food processor and turn the machine on.
2. While it’s running, add the oil in a slow, steady stream.
3. When an emulsion forms, you can add it a little faster until all the oil is incorporated.
4. Add salt and pepper, then stir in the vinegar.
5. Taste and adjust the seasoning.
6. Use immediately or refrigerate for about a week (less if using fresh herbs or aromatics).

VARIATIONS:

• Garlic Mayonnaise (Aïoli): Peel 3 to 8 cloves garlic, to taste. If mixing by hand, mince; if using a machine, roughly chop. Use at least half olive oil (you can go all the way if you like) and proceed with the recipe, adding the garlic in Step 2.
• Chile Mayonnaise: Use mild chiles like ancho or hot ones like Thai or dried chipotle. Soak one or two dried chiles in warm water until soft. Drain and pat dry. Or use 1 canned chipotle and a little of its adobo sauce. If mixing by hand, mince the chiles; if using a machine, roughly chop. Add the chile in Step 2.
• Roasted Pepper Mayonnaise: Add 1 Roasted Red Pepper (page 330) or use yellow or orange. If mixing by hand, mince; if using a machine, roughly chop. Add the pepper in Step 2.
• Green Sauce, French Style: Easier by machine. After the mayonnaise is made in Step 2, add to the blender or processor 1 sprig fresh tarragon, about 10 sprigs watercress (thick stems removed), 10 chives, and the leaves from 5 parsley stems. Process until not quite puréed but definitely green.
• Cold Mustard Sauce: Fabulous sandwich spread. Add 1 heaping tablespoon Dijon or whole grain mustard along with the other ingredients in Step 2. Thin with a tablespoon or two of cream—fresh, fraîche, or sour—to the desired consistency.

12 EASY WAYS TO FLAVOR MAYONNAISE:

After the mayo is done, stir, blend, or process in any of the following ingredients, alone or in combination. If working by hand, be sure to mince the ingredients well. (And of course you can use any of these—and the preceding variations—to flavor store-bought mayo too.)

• Saffron Mayonnaise: A pinch of saffron threads.
• Herbed Mayonnaise: Up to 1 tablespoon chopped strong fresh herb leaves like rosemary, oregano, tarragon, marjoram, epazote, or thyme or up to 1/4 cup chopped mild fresh herb leaves like parsley, cilantro, chives, chervil, or basil.
• Tartar Sauce: Up to 1/4 cup chopped sweet pickles or capers and a spoonful of mustard.
• Soy Mayonnaise: 2 tablespoons soy sauce, or to taste.
• Wasabi Mayonnaise: 1 teaspoon wasabi powder, or to taste.
• Citrus Mayonnaise: 1 teaspoon (or more) grated citrus zest.
• Horseradish Mayonnaise: At least a teaspoon of prepared horseradish.
• Seasoned Mayonnaise: A few dashes of Tabasco, Worcestershire, or other prepared sauce.
• Nutty Mayonnaise: Up to 1/2 cup toasted chopped almonds, walnuts, or pecans.
• Ginger Mayonnaise: 1 tablespoon minced fresh ginger.
• Spiced Mayonnaise: Up to 2 tablespoons of any spice blend, like curry or chili powder.
• Anchovy Mayonnaise: 2 or 3 anchovies, blended in at the very end (omit the salt).

DEMYSTIFYING MAYO: 

Mayonnaise is an emulsion, in which oil is dispersed into eggs through vigorous stirring to produce a thick pale yellow cream; a few basic seasonings balance the flavors. Homemade mayos go south when you add the oil too quickly or (less often) you add too much oil. You might also make sure your eggs aren’t too cold and your oil is at room temperature because temperature fluctuations can cause some instability, though this is a really minor point. And if you’ve heard that the direction in which you whisk matters, forget it.

To help you add the oil in a slow steady stream, you could put it in a squeeze bottle or a liquid measuring cup with a spout. Or use a teaspoon to start with literally drops at a time. If you’re using a food processor, note that many have a feed tube with a small hole in it, put there specifically for this purpose; you put the oil in the tube and it drips out. (I have drilled holes in feed tubes without them, which also works.)

For general purposes, I like grapeseed oil best because of its neutral flavor, especially if you’re planning on adding ingredients; corn oil delivers slightly more flavor and golden color. Use olive oil if you want a particularly Mediterranean taste, which is often the case, especially with the Aïoli variation. Asian ingredients go better with a mayonnaise made from grapeseed, corn, or—for a more pronounced flavor—peanut oil. For vinegar, I like sherry or white wine vinegar, but try lemon or even lime juice for a brighter flavor. All of these decisions should be based on how you plan to use the mayo.